![]() My MS1 is working great but MS2 is having troubles to get rpm while cranking with same sensor gaps. I have tried several gaps from 1-2mm and all have worked with MS1. In my opinion those seems to be quite similar and shouln’t cause this problem? Both are working well with jimstim 6-1 decoder mode but only MS1 is working decently in the car while cranking. I have wired the hall inputs with the schematics found from MS-extra web site. Once started it usually runs while warmed up and can be driven. Sometimes MS2 is synching and sometimes not. I still have problems to get rpm while cranking. The problem was the flood clear and it is already solved. I posted that log just to indicate that there was some problem with no pw while cranking. That first log is generated with stimulator and the map is that’s why constant. The trigger points of our wheel is to close (to smal gaps) to work with this sensor at a closer range. We pulled the trigger sensor away from the trigger wheel and every thing works fine, now the trigger sensor i about 5mm away from the trigger wheel. We hade the same problem when we changed to the honeywell GT101 trigger sensor. Pw ok immediately when rpm is above cranking rpm): Log file of the above situation (cranking with jimstim, rpm ok but no injector pw. MS1 installation works fine with same wiring and sensors. I have also difficulties getting rpm while cranking when MS2 board is installed in the car. I have a working MS1extra installation with this car and my MS2 board is drop-in replacement. I have standard values set up in the cranking pulse table. Most of the time when rpm is below cranking rpm there is no injector pw. V3 board with MS2 and MS2extra release 2.01 6-1 trigger wheel with Honeywell hall wired with +5v pullup turbocharged inline four cylinder engine One quick easy test would be to pull the vac hose off the bottom of the MAP sensor while the engine is struggling to idle at low afrs.I can get no injector pw while cranking. ![]() If there is a dodgy wire causing high resistance, the ECU won't throw a fault, it'll just record a low coolant temp. This dropped the mpg down from 36-38 to about 28, so that's about 30% more fuel going in just because of the water temps. I also recently fixed my Mondeo's shocking fuel economy due to the oil thermostat sticking and the car never warming up. The water temp is one of the biggest adjustments the ECU gets at idle, I've poked around some old cold start logs and it can increase injector duty cycle by 20 to 50%, and that's without it reporting anything like -20degC, so I think this one is quite possible. The only other thing that i can think of would be the MAP sensor, might be worth checking the output voltages against spec. Yes AFAIK the limits to fuel trim are not that large, IAT is pretty minimal and wouldn't affect things like that, and you have ruled out the lambda, and even so it still wouldn't result in that rich as default, same goes for the ECU water temp, unless Ian's theory is making it play tricks on the ECU. The fact that it isn't missing, kind of rules out a stuck injector, so in theory its got to be down to the ECUs response to a sensor, is the ECU std? or are you running a piggyback or stand alone? When it happed first it was idling fine and wheni put it in gear and pulled away it instantly went rich and could barely move the car. Would an o2 sensor cause the misture to almost instantly drop to 9.5-10 afr, feels like a switch sometimes. It did this once before and i replaced the plugs, pulled and dropped the o2 sensor in some lime juice and it seemed to fix it. It's not missing as i can rev it up to 2-2500rpm and it holds nice like that, but the afr's are still 9.5-10 at this point. I can get the car to sit at 14.4-14.7 perfectly if i give it a rev and let it come down to idle nice and easy, however if i rev it and let it drop the idle almost stalls out and the afr instantly goes to 9.5-10. This did make a bit of difference when sitting idling but tbh it could of been wishful thinking. Only options where dome, trac or alt-s which i assumed was alternator/starter. I have the rest of the package to go on but I'm trying to get a sneaky mot done and the car was running I pulled the middle fuse, was labelled alt-s. Everything stock except singled and fmic. The spec of the car is singled on a cast manifold and stock ecu and injectors. Sorry for the lack of response chaps, i left the supra yesterday and decided to install an iphone adaptor in the audi, wish i'd stayed on the supra:-(
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